Bacalhau a Bras

My absolute favourite Portuguese dish! Bacalhau a Bras is such a comforting treat: salted codfish, melting onions, and finely shredded fried potatoes, all bound together with runny eggs. It’s hard to describe what makes this dish so incredibly moreish, but I’d say it’s the simplicity of the ingredients, that, once put together, create an incredibly subtle flavour sensation. It’s definitely more than the sum of its parts!

I’ve eaten bacalhau a bras countless times in Portugal, so I tested this recipe quite a few times for it to be just absolutely right. One really important thing is that the eggs are not supposed to be scrambled. So, you don’t want eggy bits in the dish. Instead, you’re looking for the egg to emulsify, binding together the ingredients without being properly cooked (it’s the heat of the ingredients in the pan that should lightly set the eggs – not the frying pan itself).

The other challenge was the potatoes. The best bacalhau a bras is made with freshly fried matchstick potatoes – which, let’s face it, is a lot of work. Lots of places use fried matchstick crisps as a shortcut, but it just doesn’t taste right, as it lacks the soft potatoey texture. I found the best solution to get the flavour of fried potatoes with the small soft potato bits is to use hash browns. But: I’m also adding some matchstick potato crisps in the end, as it does make for a more authentic experience. Overall, I think I nailed it by combining the two. Let me know what you think!

I ate bacalhau a bras in my show ‘Bom Dia Anne’, in which I travelled around Portugal to discover the local cuisine. You can watch me here enjoying it at Tasca Zebras.

 

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Ingredients

300g bacalhau, frozen (the desalted variety)*
1 garlic clove
1 bay leaf
4 peppercorns

For the confit onions:
4 onions
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 garlic clove

Also needed:
300g hash browns, frozen
40g matchstick potatoes
4 eggs
parsley, chopped
10 black olives
Salt and pepper

Method

Serves 2

Defrost the bacalhau in the fridge overnight.

The next day, put the bacalhau in a saucepan with the peeled garlic clove, bay leaf and peppercorns. Pour over enough cold water to cover the fish. Cover with a lid and bring to the boil, then simmer for 10 minutes. Drain and let the fish cool down before removing the skin, bones and tearing the flesh into little flakes. Set aside.

Put the hash browns in an air fryer and fry for 20 minutes at 200°C.

Meanwhile, peel and slice the onions. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and fry the onions with a good pinch of salt for 8 minutes. Peel and crush the garlic clove and add to the onions after 8 minutes. Fry for another 4 minutes, so the onions have fried for 12 minutes and are meltingly soft.

When the hash browns are crispy, set them aside for 5 minutes to cool a bit, then roughly chop and add to the pan with the onions.

Add the bacalhau and the matchstick potatoes to the pan and heat up over a medium heat, stirring gently, so that everything gets hot.

Beat the eggs in a bowl with a good pinch of salt and white pepper. Remove the pan from the hob and stir through the eggs so that they coat everything and get slightly set (but not fried). If the mix seems much too runny you can briefly put it back on the hob over a medium heat while stirring – but make sure the egg doesn’t get cooked.

Stir through some chopped parsley and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Divide between two plates and decorate each portion with black olives and more parsley. Serve immediately.

*you can of course buy salted bacalhau that’s not frozen. In that case desalinate the bacalhau by soaking it for at least 24 hours, and changing the water at least three times.

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